I don't think you can do much with a cylindrical bore. The shakuhachi has a
very unique reverse tapered bore that is quite critical to the production of
many notes, and not only in the 3rd octave. I reworked the bore of my first
flute 22 times, and the comment of the sensei was, "Only 22? That's pretty
good." There are published schemae for the bore of all different sized
flutes. These based on empirical studies of many different flutes. The 1.8
shaku starts at the utaguchi with a bore diameter of 20 mm. It remains at
this diameter for about 3 cm (sometimes with a very slight concavity) and
then begins an almost linear taper to 17.5 mm at the joint, and down to a
minimum of 14.5 mm just under the lowest finger hole, after which it flares
out again to about 17 mm at the bottom. Even slight variations from this can
cause all sorts of response and tuning problems. Fingerholes are all 10.5 mm
dia. except the one just under the joint (left hand ring finger) which (at
least on modern Kinko flutes) is 10 mm (Tozan and traditional Kinko often
have them all the same). This is less critical than the bore but any great
variances from this can also cause response problems in some notes.
This is not to scare anyone away from trying to construct flutes but only to
prepare them for what to expect. It's a great lot of fun to build these
instruments but it is often anguishingly frustrating.
Toby
----- Original Message -----
送信者 : "Kenneth Forte" <kenny@cs.strath.ac.uk>
宛先 : <shakuhachi@weber.ucsd.edu>
送信日時 : 2000年5月12日
件名 : Re: Blowing edge
> Brian Bagby wrote:
>
> > How does the shape of the edge affect the intonation and playability?
> > In particular --- Shape/depth/width of the arc and Angle of bevel?
> > Is the edge as sharp as possible, or is slightly blunt desired?
> > Are there some 'average' dimensions that should work?
> >
> > Waiting for Enlightenment
> > Brian
>
>
> Hi Brian (and others)
>
> I've been wondering this myself - I've tried making a couple of
> shakuhachi from pvc tubing (using Carl Abbott's book) but they don't
> play the higher notes of the lower register too well, but then that
> might be down to my playing..
>
> I don't have a "real" one to compare it to which doesn't make life any
> easier although I now have one on order from a US website but I think
> i'll take weeks if not months to get here (Scotland). I may need to
> learn patience...
>
> I was also thinking of trying to make one from wood but I thought I'd
> try and get a plastic one working first. I occasionally make irish
> flutes from pvc and I seem to remember it took quite a few attempts to
> get the blowing hole right when I started.
>
> Any advice would be appreciated!
>
> Kenny
>
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