OIL AND CRACKED BAMBOO SHAKUHACHI
Riley says that he was told that oiling shakuhachi is not necessary. I
agree. I apply oil to new flutes only just before the leather strap is used
to polish the bottom and top of the flute. The oil is on the flutes for
perhaps no longer than 5 minutes. It does make the surface of the bamboo
slightly more attractive for a short time and aids the polishing.
As far as "glue" not sticking to oiled flutes...I know nothing about that at
all because I don't use glue unless urushi can be considered a glue. I do
know that cracks (splits) that have been filled with some sort of "super
glue", the sort that dries instantly and tends to stick one's fingers
together, are just about the most troublesome thing I have to deal with.
After this super glue has been applied it is very difficult if not
impossible to get it out of the crack so that the crack can be closed
completely. This glue will start to melt with the application of a little
heat, a match or a lighter works fine, and can be wiped or scraped off the
surface if one is quick about it. But it just doesn't want to come out of
the crack.
The easiest way to get a clean crack closed is to apply moisture so that the
bamboo will swell and disappear the crack. In severe cases a crack may be
wide enough to admit a wooden pencil or a ball pen. I have never seen a
clean crack that could not be closed with water and have even left a flute
floating in the Japanese bath overnight. Any really humid environment will
close a crack, even if it takes several days. After all, the crack probably
happened because of lack of moisture. Just reverse the condition and the
crack will close. Then bind.
Tom Deaver
Bei Shu Shakuhachi Workshop
http://www3.ocn.ne.jp/~shaku100/
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