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Nelson,
Thanks, so much on the oil information.
I have a question on the replacing of evaporated water with oil. Is it an
even replacement? Can you really replace all the evaporated water with oil?
I wonder if the bamboo, or any wood for that matter, re-absorb the oil at
the same rated as it evaporates the water and as deeply as the water is
evaporated. Or does the oil only penetrate so deep and them no more with
surface topical application? Would temporary immersion work?
Also, in other woods, lets say for bow making, you still WANT a certain
percentage of moisture in the wood. You want, say 7-10% moisture for the
bow wood to work efficiently and not sluggishly. Has anyone done a study on
optimum moisture content for bamboo/shakuhachi, or other woodwind
instruments, for best resonance and sound qualities?
While I seriously doubt it, is it possible to -over- oil your shakuhachi
and reduce it's resonance?
Herb
At 2/3/02 02:22 PM, Nelson Zink wrote:
> > Behind the scenes they are continually rubbing the tubes of their
> instruments
> > against the side of their noses to get the best sheen and natural,
> spiritual
> > sound.
>
>While face oil is free, it tends to be fairly acidic. Should you have any
>doubt, put some in your eye.
>
> > When asked about oiling my shak, my teacher replied that eventually the
> > oil will oxidize and who want's to play a rancid flute!
>
>Nut oils are often the worst culprits for rancid smell. To bypass any
>possibility of this switch to mineral oil. It doesn't oxidize and is
>virtually inert. Paraffin/Vaseline/mineral oil are essentially the same
>substance, just taken at different points in the cracking process. Jojoba
>oil is another good choice as it's a little different than most vegetable
>oils in that it contains a high percentage of waxes.
>
>Wood/bamboo cracks because the water molecules evaporate, thus the cell
>structure shrinks. To stop cracking the spaces the water occupied must be
>filled and that's usually done with with an oil or wax. Because the woody
>part of bamboo isn't very dense penetration isn't usually a problem.
>
>Think of it this way: At the beginning of your favorite shak concert all
>the seats are filled, but slowly people start leaving. The Water People.
>So to keep the concert going we want to fill those seats with Oil/Wax
>People. They won't evaporate. What we're after is all the seats being
>filled, a full house--then the music goes on. Once all the Water People
>have been replaced with Oil/Wax People the hall will stabilize and our job
>is done.
>
>Nelson
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<html>
<font size=3>Nelson,<br>
<br>
Thanks, so much on the oil information. <br>
<br>
I have a question on the replacing of evaporated water with oil. Is it an
even replacement? Can you really replace all the evaporated water with
oil? I wonder if the bamboo, or any wood for that matter, re-absorb the
oil at the same rated as it evaporates the water and as deeply as the
water is evaporated. Or does the oil only penetrate so deep and them no
more with surface topical application? Would temporary immersion
work?<br>
<br>
Also, in other woods, lets say for bow making, you still WANT a certain
percentage of moisture in the wood. You want, say 7-10% moisture for the
bow wood to work efficiently and not sluggishly. Has anyone done a study
on optimum moisture content for bamboo/shakuhachi, or other woodwind
instruments, for best resonance and sound qualities?<br>
<br>
While I seriously doubt it, is it possible to -over- oil your shakuhachi
and reduce it's resonance?<br>
<br>
Herb<br>
<br>
<br>
At 2/3/02 02:22 PM, Nelson Zink wrote:<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>> Behind the scenes they are continually
rubbing the tubes of their instruments<br>
> against the side of their noses to get the best sheen and natural,
spiritual<br>
> sound.<br>
<br>
While face oil is free, it tends to be fairly acidic. Should you have any
doubt, put some in your eye.<br>
<br>
> When asked about oiling my shak, my teacher replied that eventually
the<br>
> oil will oxidize and who want's to play a rancid flute!<br>
<br>
Nut oils are often the worst culprits for rancid smell. To bypass any
possibility of this switch to mineral oil. It doesn't oxidize and is
virtually inert. Paraffin/Vaseline/mineral oil are essentially the same
substance, just taken at different points in the cracking process. Jojoba
oil is another good choice as it's a little different than most vegetable
oils in that it contains a high percentage of waxes.<br>
<br>
Wood/bamboo cracks because the water molecules evaporate, thus the cell
structure shrinks. To stop cracking the spaces the water occupied must be
filled and that's usually done with with an oil or wax. Because the woody
part of bamboo isn't very dense penetration isn't usually a
problem.<br>
<br>
Think of it this way: At the beginning of your favorite shak concert all
the seats are filled, but slowly people start leaving. The Water People.
So to keep the concert going we want to fill those seats with Oil/Wax
People. They won't evaporate. What we're after is all the seats being
filled, a full house--then the music goes on. Once all the Water People
have been replaced with Oil/Wax People the hall will stabilize and our
job is done.<br>
<br>
Nelson</font></blockquote></html>
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