--=====================_696654870==_.REL
boundary="=====================_696654872==_.ALT"
--=====================_696654872==_.ALT
Hi Tom,
Thanks for your explanation. However, I was unable to open your attachment.
What kind of program can I use to open it?
Thanks,
herb
At 2/27/02 02:10 AM, you wrote:
>When was it...must have been 1994...when the Japan Foundation sent me
>around the world offering up one or two day shakuhachi repair
>courses. Counting that and over 30 years of shakuhachi repairing, a large
>number of shakuhachi bindings have been accomplished. Here's a general
>outline of a couple of satisfactory processes to get a split shakuhachi
>closed and bound up in durable fashion.
>
>First, the crack should be closed. It has happened more than once that a
>split shakuhachi has arrived here with many metal hose clamps spaced along
>its length and tightened to close the crack. Sorry, no success with that.
>Other shakuhachi have arrived here wrapped with steel wire, also
>unsuccessful. Many other folks have written asking how to close a crack.
>Thinking about it one should be able to come up with the reason why the
>bamboo split in the first place...excessive drying! To close any crack in
>bamboo, and cracks wide enough to accept a wooden pencil are not uncommon,
>simply replace the lost moisture. The most recent repair had a wide crack
>which took three days of resting in a damp environment to close.
>
>Sometimes cracks just won't close completely without a little help from
>something other than moisture, but there should be some place where the
>crack is completely closed. This often happens when a crack extends the
>whole length of the upper half of the shakuhachi. It will be closed at
>the joint, the end away from the utaguchi, because a binding is normally
>under whatever ornament has been used at the joint. Start binding there,
>using one or the other of the methods described below or some other
>method, placing the binding between the ornament and the 4th finger
>hole. Then work toward the utaguchi end of the bamboo. Applying a tight
>binding should close the crack completely or very nearly so. Sometimes it
>happens that while working the crack will begin to open up. In this case,
>make a couple of bindings and then place the bamboo back in a damp
>environment to reclose the crack. Make a couple more bindings the next
>day or whenever the crack has closed. Eventually you'll get to the end of
>the work.
>
>For rattan bindings square cornered grooves are cut into the bamboo at
>intervals along the length of the crack. These grooves can be any width
>(2 bu is common but 3 bu or even 4 bu or whatever can also be used). The
>grooves should be deep enough to accommodate some string which is wrapped
>round and round the bamboo in the bottom of the groove, some filler of
>some sort (used to fill the groove so the finished surface of the filler
>is below the surface of the bamboo by an amount equal to the thickness of
>the rattan) and the rattan itself.
>
>Be very careful to not make these grooves too deep. I've seen more than a
>few flutes with distortions to the bore, little compression rings, at the
>location of each binding.
>
>By all means, never apply any sort of that instant drying super-glue to
>cracks. It goes way down inside the crack and is almost impossible to
>remove. Many people use it on cracks but after doing so the crack will
>probably never close completely.
>
>When making the structural string binding, wrap the string over itself for
>the first few rounds and at the end pull the string under itself for the
>last few rounds. If the string tension is sufficient it will not
>slip. The same technique is used for wrapping the cosmetic rattan. Use a
>small cross peen hammer or other suitable tool to eliminate the bumps,
>flatten them, where the rattan goes over itself at the beginning and
>end. Lastly, apply some sort of liquid adhesive that will seep down
>through the spaces between the rattan to the surface of the filler and
>also fill any other spaces. More than one application may be
>necessary. Be sure to wipe off the excess adhesive before it
>hardens. Urushi is the material of choice for this in Japan.
>
>After all the bindings have been done, place the bamboo in a dry
>environment, a kotatsu works really fine, to open the crack a bit. Then
>fill the crack with some sort of filler that will eventually harden. Keep
>it in mind that the bamboo will move with changes in humidity so the
>repaired crack is expected to open and close a bit from day to day.
>
>A more simple and structurally stronger method of binding is to use
>ordinary string directly on the surface of the bamboo. After the bindings
>are in place paint them one or more times with some sort of liquid
>adhesive to hold them in place.
>
>These written explanations seem rather tedious. Have a look at the
>attached diagrams.
>
>Good Luck!
>
>Tom Deaver
>
>
>
>
><file://C:\Program%20Files\Qualcomm\Eudora%20Mail\Attach\Binding%201>2949c515.jpg<file://C:\Program%20Files\Qualcomm\Eudora%20Mail\Attach\Binding%201>
>Binding 1
--=====================_696654872==_.ALT
<html>
<font size=3D3>Hi Tom,<br>
<br>
Thanks for your explanation. However, I was unable to open your
attachment. What kind of program can I use to open it?<br>
Thanks,<br>
<br>
herb<br>
<br>
At 2/27/02 02:10 AM, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite cite>When was it...must have been 1994...when the
Japan Foundation sent me around the world offering up one or two day
shakuhachi repair courses. Counting that and over 30 years of
shakuhachi repairing, a large number of shakuhachi bindings have been
accomplished. Here's a general outline of a couple of satisfactory
processes to get a split shakuhachi closed and bound up in durable
fashion.<br>
<br>
First, the crack should be closed. It has happened more than once
that a split shakuhachi has arrived here with many metal hose clamps
spaced along its length and tightened to close the crack. Sorry, no
success with that. Other shakuhachi have arrived here wrapped with steel
wire, also unsuccessful. Many other folks have written asking how
to close a crack. Thinking about it one should be able to come up with
the reason why the bamboo split in the first place...excessive
drying! To close any crack in bamboo, and cracks wide enough to
accept a wooden pencil are not uncommon, simply replace the lost
moisture. The most recent repair had a wide crack which took three
days of resting in a damp environment to close.<br>
<br>
Sometimes cracks just won't close completely without a little help from
something other than moisture, but there should be some place where the
crack is completely closed. This often happens when a crack extends
the whole length of the upper half of the shakuhachi. It will be
closed at the joint, the end away from the utaguchi, because a binding is
normally under whatever ornament has been used at the joint. Start
binding there, using one or the other of the methods described below or
some other method, placing the binding between the ornament and the 4th
finger hole. Then work toward the utaguchi end of the bamboo.
Applying a tight binding should close the crack completely or very nearly
so. Sometimes it happens that while working the crack will begin to
open up. In this case, make a couple of bindings and then place the
bamboo back in a damp environment to reclose the crack. Make a
couple more bindings the next day or whenever the crack has closed.
Eventually you'll get to the end of the work.<br>
<br>
For rattan bindings square cornered grooves are cut into the bamboo at
intervals along the length of the crack. These grooves can be any
width (2 bu is common but 3 bu or even 4 bu or whatever can also be
used). The grooves should be deep enough to accommodate some string
which is wrapped round and round the bamboo in the bottom of the groove,
some filler of some sort (used to fill the groove so the finished surface
of the filler is below the surface of the bamboo by an amount equal to
the thickness of the rattan) and the rattan itself.<br>
<br>
Be very careful to not make these grooves too deep. I've seen more
than a few flutes with distortions to the bore, little compression rings,
at the location of each binding.<br>
<br>
By all means, never apply any sort of that instant drying super-glue to
cracks. It goes way down inside the crack and is almost impossible
to remove. Many people use it on cracks but after doing so the
crack will probably never close completely.<br>
<br>
When making the structural string binding, wrap the string over itself
for the first few rounds and at the end pull the string under itself for
the last few rounds. If the string tension is sufficient it will
not slip. The same technique is used for wrapping the cosmetic
rattan. Use a small cross peen hammer or other suitable tool to
eliminate the bumps, flatten them, where the rattan goes over itself at
the beginning and end. Lastly, apply some sort of liquid adhesive
that will seep down through the spaces between the rattan to the surface
of the filler and also fill any other spaces. More than one application
may be necessary. Be sure to wipe off the excess adhesive before it
hardens. Urushi is the material of choice for this in Japan.<br>
<br>
After all the bindings have been done, place the bamboo in a dry
environment, a kotatsu works really fine, to open the crack a bit.
Then fill the crack with some sort of filler that will eventually
harden. Keep it in mind that the bamboo will move with changes in
humidity so the repaired crack is expected to open and close a bit from
day to day.<br>
<br>
A more simple and structurally stronger method of binding is to use
ordinary string directly on the surface of the bamboo. After the
bindings are in place paint them one or more times with some sort of
liquid adhesive to hold them in place.<br>
<br>
These written explanations seem rather tedious. Have a look at the
attached diagrams.<br>
<br>
Good Luck!<br>
<br>
Tom Deaver<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<a=
href=3D"file://C:\Program%20Files\Qualcomm\Eudora%20Mail\Attach\Binding%201=
" eudora=3D"attachment"><img=
src=3D"cid:4.3.2.7.2.20020227095919.00be7e90@spot.colorado.edu.0" width=3D3=
2 height=3D32 alt=3D"2949c515.jpg"></a><a=
href=3D"file://C:\Program%20Files\Qualcomm\Eudora%20Mail\Attach\Binding%201=
" eudora=3D"attachment"> Binding
1 </a></font></blockquote></html>
--=====================_696654872==_.ALT--
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